We are lucky enough to own a place in St. John, US Virgin Islands that we rent out when we are not there. I get a lot of questions regarding where to eat on St. John from people renting the house, so I thought I’d post it here for the rest of the world. And, if you haven’t been to St. John, you’re missing out on a very special place….
Chateaux Bordeaux – Top of Bordeaux Mountain, Centerline Road. Small, romantic fine dining restaurant with lace tablecloths and impressive wine collection. Best view on the whole island, and it doesn’t even have a sunset. Cute bar to have a cocktail before dinner. Best place for a quiet, romantic (and expensive) dinner. (UPDATE 3/10: Recently reopened under new management/staff. Haven’t been there yet, so I can’t vouch for the cuisine just yet.)
Asolare – Top of hill overlooking Cruz Bay. Cool kids fine dining.. Located in an old St. John estate home with beautiful view of St. Thomas and Cruz Bay. Interetsting pan-asian cuisine with a caribbean flair. Stay away from the sushi – no good. Everything else is, though. Good wine list. Great bar. Ask for a table on the balcony.
ZoZo’s – At Gallow’s Point Resort. Upscale Italian (that means no spaghetti and meatballs, buster) with great wine list and fabulous appetizers. Always fresh and always delicious. Be sure and come early and go up one level to the bar to see the best sunset on the island (as well as the best martinis.) There’s a reason Brangelina and entourage had a private meal here last month. Ask for a table by the deck for a cool Caribbean breeze while you dine. There’s a reason this is everyone’s favorite spot, hands down.
Lime Inn – In Cruz Bay, across from Fred’s. Definitely the best place in St. John to have succulent, fresh Caribbean lobster. Prepared on the grill, perfect every time. Most other items on the menu aren’t that great, so I wouldn’t go there unless you want the lobster. Neat bar built around an old ficus tree. No a/c – but you don’t really need it. Great place for kids. Can get crowded, especially in season.
Sun Dog Cafe – in Mongoose Junction, Cruz Bay. Great outdoor lunch/dinner spot in the middle of great shopping. The fish tacos are really good, as well as specialty sandwiches, burritos, salads and specials. Ask for a frozen drink in the pretty, hand painted take-home glass.
Shipwreck Landing – Coral bay. Best bloody mary on the island, as well as great food and homemade hot sauce to boot. (It’s more like a curry sauce than hot – and you can buy a bottle to take home.) There are so many good things here, but my favorites include fresh mahi beer battered fish and chips, quesadillas of the day, and a homemade veggie burger with lentils that I just love smothered in that hot sauce. Great breeze and nice people make this one of my favorites.
JJ’S Texas Coast Cafe – In the park, near the ferry dock, Cruz Bay. Super people watching location and decent tex-mex at reasonable prices. Yummy fish burgers, and good down-home specials like chicken fried steak and mashed potatoes. Service can be a bit slow, as they tend to focus on the locals more than the tourists.
Uncle Joe’s BBQ – Cruz Bay, across from Cap’s Place. Fabulous BBQ at good prices. Ridiculously long lines can mean a big wait, but it’s worth it. If you like pulled pork, BBQ chicken or any of the traditional sides like cole slaw, macaroni and cheese or corn on the cob, this is the place for you. Don’t give them any attitude, though – or you may never get your meal! (Also, don’t bother to order ahead on the phone unless you know them personally… somehow the ticket always gets “lost.”)
Candi’s BBQ – Cruz Bay, just before Starfish Market. Now that Candi’s is here, there is no need to put up with the long lines and attitude from Uncle Joe. Incredible BBQ chicken, steak, pork and Mahi (to die for), great sides like pasta salad, coleslaw (with rasins, mmmm), peas and rice and potato salad. Friendly and fast service, and reasonable prices to boot.
Tourist Trap – Salt Pond. Worth the drive past Coral Bay to the Salt Pond just before Concordia Eco Tents. Literally a tiny cafe in the owner’s front yard. Choose from daily specials such as wings, hot dogs, or my favorite, the famous Lobster Roll. Is $11 a little steep for a lobster roll on a hot dog bun and a bag of chips? Probably – but it is damn good. Also try Larry’s Soon-to-be-Famous drink, Drink Right Keep Left – basically a bunch of flavored rums with juice.
PLACES TO STAY AWAY FROM
DaLivio – Cruz Bay, across from Lime Inn. I don’t know if there is a curse on this location, but this was the second time in as many restaurant incarnations that I have had one of the worst experiences ever on St. John. I hate to say this, but the food at this restaurant was almost inedible. I did have a very nice appetizer of razor-thin zucchini drizzled with olive oil, but this is hardly something that is difficult to make. Everything else the four of us had was just plain awful, and I had pasta! The “bolognese” sauce was literally tasteless chunks of ground beef. It tasted like what you would eat if you made Hamburger Helper without adding anything past step one. Everyone else had some seafood stuff and let’s just say it was “off.” One person had a seafood “en croute” where the inside was uncooked and doughy. And, it wasn’t cheap! There is much better Italian on the island – ZoZo’s for one.
Cruz Bay Prime – Westin Resort – Great Cruz Bay. Another disappointment from the Westin. After one failed attempt at a steakhouse last year, a new steakhouse has opened in the old Chloë & Bernards site, now called Cruz Bay Prime. My $48 filet mignon was not only absurdly expensive (this price does not include anything except the steak) it was completely inedible. It was so charred to a crisp on out outside that it tasted like a Kingsford briquette. The uninspired sides (at $11/pop and not really sharable) were tasteless and boring. I mean, how can you make macaroni and cheese tasteless? By adding unseasoned, plain breadcrumbs on top of it, that’s how. My wedge salad, instead of being served with traditional blue cheese dressing, was served with ranch dressing with blue cheese bits. My dining companions, well versed in fine dining, were convinced that they did not receive the cut of steak they ordered. We were all convinced that none of these steaks were actually prime grade – although the price would make you think differently. Stay far away.
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